Gravel 101
If there’s one place I excel, it’s in closing my eyes for pictures…
What is gravel riding, and why is it so seductive? The bike industry loves using images of svelte cyclists plastered in mud out in the middle of the woods. How did they get all the way out there and how can I be that cool?
First of all, cool is relative.
Second of all, you can definitely be that person plastered in mud out in the middle of woods!
When I think of ‘gravel riding’ I certainly think of being in a remote place surrounded by trees or mountains and the like. However, ‘gravel riding’ can also mean riding on any manner of unpaved surfaces, even if they’re completely flat, it’s still gravel riding! The joy of riding on unpaved surfaces is that they’re usually car-free and in more naturally scenic areas, so as long as that is the goal, keep reading.
Very awesome intro video shared with me by my sweet friend, Will.
‘Gravel Bikes’
Will a gravel-specific bike make your experience riding gravel better? Maybe. Should that be the limiting factor in attempting gravel riding? No.
When considering what bike to use for gravel riding it’s important to remember that sexy imagery, gear reviews, travel writing, and blogging around cycling is meant to generate capital. Bike companies sell products, and therefore do not have an incentive to market products that would serve more than one purpose.
I have spent years riding a big ol’ steel touring bike for everything — grocery runs, multi-day tours, and gravel grinding. I would have a whole fleet of bikes if I could, but it’s just not financially feasible. From my perspective most bikes marketed as ‘gravel bikes’ are really road bikes or hybrid bikes that can accommodate wider tires, but based on your cycling goals, you may not have to invest in a whole new bike. A wider set of tires may be all you need to get started.
Tires
I loathe bike elitism (elitism of any kind, actually) and I don’t like prescribing that this type of cycling needs that type of bike/tire/bag/training, etc. However, I will concede that wide and/or gravel-specific tires are really helpful for navigating unpaved terrain. Nearly any bike can be a gravel bike if it has gravel tires. I would recommend tires with a minimum width of 35mm, but work with the bike you have.
There are A LOT of options when it comes to gravel tires, and it can be overwhelming. Let the shop know you want a tire that can handle local trails (or whatever trails/roads you intend to ride). Take the bike to the shop so they can help you find a tire that fits the frame and your cycling goals.
Try not to get stuck on having the ‘right’ tire. A gravel tire:
Is as wide as possible given constraints of the frame.
Has a tread appropriate for the terrain.
Is affordable.
Finding a Route
There are a number of different digital and analog methods for finding off-road places to ride. The first place to start would be local cycling clubs and bike shops. Attend social rides and get to know your cycling community! There are likely people who know local trails and can point you in the right direction. The same goes for bike shops — be nice and tip the mechanics! If you are shy, don’t have a local bike community, or simply need other resources the list below is by no means exhaustive, but are some good starting points:
Ride with GPS is an awesome online library of user-generated routes. It allows for keyword, distance, and elevation filters so I usually search using “gravel” until I find something I like. Routes can be copied and edited as well. When downloaded, the route data will be accessible without cellular data so you won’t get lost when you’re outside cell service. Ride with GPS is it requires a subscription to access features like turn-by-turn directions. However, routes can be exported in a number of formats and uploaded to different apps or devices like OsmAnd or Google Maps for offline use at no cost.
GAIA GPS offers free and paid subscriptions for their offline navigation. Their library includes US Forest Service roads, mountain biking trails, and off-road vehicle roads. I have not tried this service, but it seems to offer a lot of features at a really competitive price.
The Rails to Trails Conservancy has a great tool for finding trails nationwide called TrailLink.
US Forest Service maps are available at Forest Service offices. I have not personally used these maps to create routes, but I know people who have with great success!
Bikepacking.com is a great resource for route inspiration and gear reviews.
Trail Forks, MTB Project, and Singletracks are all online databases for mountain bike trails. Depending on the terrain, a lot of mountain bike trails are navigable with a gravel bike.
Be mindful that some trails, roads, and recreation areas may require permits or written permission. In the Pacific Northwest, many forest areas are used for industrial agriculture (lumber/timber), and may at times be occupied by heavy machinery including trucks and their associated work crews.
Before the Ride
Make a Plan
If you are going into a remote area without cell service, have a safety plan that includes:
Telling someone who is not going on the ride where you are going, when you are leaving, and when you will be back — even if you are going with a group!
How you will access water if you run out.
Repair and first aid equipment.
As with any bike ride, do a safety check before heading out. Remember your ABCs!
Air pressure: When riding gravel, it is sometimes helpful to deflate your tires just a little bit. When tires are less rigid they are able to gain more traction on rough terrain. Riding with rigid, or fully inflated, tires can feel really bouncy.
Brakes: Make sure your brake pads have enough life in them, it’s unsafe to ride without the ability to stop!
Chain maintenance: Give your chain some love before and after a dusty or muddy ride. The dirt and grit that can collect on the chain gets circulated through the whole drivetrain and can degrade the components. Keeping your chain clean and lubed will prolong the life of the chain and make the ride more efficient! Here’s a video on chain maintenance if you want some more guidance.
Hydration
Depending on the route, there may be potential to be in remote areas without access to potable water. Make sure to bring more than enough water for your ride; sometimes this means bringing a water treatment or filtration device. I carry a hydration bladder in a frame bag and wrap the tube up and over my handlebars so I can drink as I’m riding.
Hydrating properly also means replenishing the electrolytes lost to sweat. Consider carrying electrolyte tablets or powder on strenuous rides and/or hot days.
Snacks!
Consider that you may need 200 calories or more per hour of riding — riding gravel can be a lot more strenuous than road riding. Snacks are important for fueling your muscles, but also for building community! You are allowed to build in snack stops along your route, even if it means leaving the forest or whatever. Choose beautiful spots to eat your food and take the time to connect with your riding partners.
The Ride
Time Management
Time management on gravel rides is something I had to learn the hard way. I can reasonably estimate my riding time on paved surfaces, but gravel riding is usually slower, and requires more breaks. I live in the Pacific Northwest and like to ride gravel through the fall and winter when daylight is really limited; and that means early starts to beat sundown. I would recommend starting with shorter rides so you can understand your gravel pace. Then build up to all-day gravelpaloozas so you don’t get stuck in the middle of the woods for hours after the sun goes down — and yes I am speaking from experience.
Ascents
Shift down before the hill for a smoother transition
Shift weight as forward as possible by engaging your core and shifting more weight to the nose of the saddle, on rough surfaces this gives your front wheel more traction and stability
If you decide to stand up, get your weight forward to stabilize the front wheel
Keep your shoulders relaxed and keep breathing
You’re allowed to stop and take breaks! Angle your bike about 45 degrees perpendicular to the slope to make getting back on a little easier.
Descents
Shift your weight back by standing up to stabilize the back wheel
Pump your brakes to prevent upper body fatigue, and to avoid skidding out
It may seem counterintuitive, but when riding through something wet and really rough, controlled momentum is your friend — try to glide through wet or rough spots with momentum and steering as little as possible.
Keep your shoulders relaxed and keep breathing
You’re allowed to stop and take breaks! Descents can be more exhausting than ascents because of all the vibration.