Valle Diaries: Lofoten Islands
When I was in Svalbard, my roommate and a few outdoor guides told me that if I wanted to see the Northern Lights I should visit the Lofoten Islands, and after doing a quick search on the archipelago in northern Norway, I was sold! The blog 68 North was really helpful in helping me sort out the general geography and terrain of the island, and if I had more time I think I would have been much more invested in finding more of his hikes and hidden spots! It was hands-down the most beautiful place I’ve ever been and I can’t wait to go back in the summer time when the cold might not be so completely biting and there would be more time for hiking — the 7 hours of quasi-daylight was limiting.
Getting There
To get to the islands I took a flight from Copenhagen to Oslo, another flight from Oslo to Bodø, and then because my plane was late and I missed the only ferry from Bodø to Moskenes, I went back to the airport and took yet another flight to Leknes. I finally got a hotel in Leknes at 11pm, so a full 12 hours of travel and I made it!
If you are not pressed for time, or under the impression that you are pressed for time (as I was), it is very possible to walk from the airport to the ferry terminal in Bodø within 20 minutes, and it is also very possible to walk from the airport to the hotels in Leknes within 20 minutes as well. I say this to spare you the expense of taxi rides, or the stress of finding a ride on the limited public buses. I really recommend taking a flight from Bodø to Leknes or Svolvær over trying to get the ferry — it takes much less time and is a lot more convenient, since you have to fly to Bodø anyhow, and the ferry schedule is very limited and difficult to interpret.
Another option for getting to the islands would be flying to Narvik and renting a car, or taking a bus down the archipelago. I believe you can also fly from Narvik to Leknes or Svolvær.
Staying There
I had an AirBnB booked in Moskenes at the prettiest (westernmost) end of the archipelago. I got up early and took one of the few public buses from Leknes about an hour down to the Moskenes ferry port where I rented a car from Rent-a-Car Moskenes. There are a few car rental companies on the island that rent used cars for way less than the bigger companies. I got a 2-day rental for 1300 NOK (about $160), but I wish I had negotiated more since it was the low season.
Getting Around
After riding the bus from Leknes and being stunned with the sunrise over the mountainous archipelago, I picked up my rental car and headed to Fredvang. Heading east from Moskenes toward Leknes, I took a left over the two little bridges and parked near an information sign. Across the street from the sign was a path that led past a house and up to the saddle of two peaks.
I won’t bore you with the details of what I did — it was mostly just asking other tourists where I should hike and going there. You literally can’t go wrong, the views are spectacular everywhere because it’s an entire archipelago of mountains.
